Who made our critic's favorite FIVE in Naples?•NAPLES DAILY NEWS
It takes a lot of effort to open a restaurant in Collier County. But two in the same year?
by Diana Biederman
Leave it to busy Brooke Kravetz, a chef in her own right, and now managing partner at both, letting others work their kitchen magic.
What do they have in common? Darkcore décor and Executive Pastry Chef Corie Greenberg’s exquisite desserts.
I enjoyed both, albeit for different reasons.
Old Vines Naples' a la carte offerings are created by executive chef Daniel Swofford, Kravetz’s replacement at The Cave. An open kitchen, seemingly 20 times the size of Swofford’s most recent digs, allows him the freedom to do things differently.
At dinner, his expansive menu is classified into eight sections with suggested wine pairings for each dish, though several overlap categories. As someone who rarely orders chicken at a restaurant, the coq au vin-inspired bird’s leg with delectable roasted mushrooms and potato puree is rockstar good. Uptown also offers a full bar with fun cocktails in a stunning lounge. And they serve late lunch at 1 p.m.
In East Naples, the 30-seater Old Vines Supper Club serves up a multi-course prix-fixe concept, rotating family-style luxe comfort food appealing to adults, tasting menus and vintner dinners. Here, the top toque is Travis Roanhorse, who keeps it interesting; it’s unlikely to experience the same meal twice, adding to the fun.
While the term “hidden gem” is often misused, it’s applicable here given its easy-to-miss strip mall location. Upon stepping inside, sophistication in a cozy setting is the vibe. “Club” in the name is somewhat of a misnomer: It’s quiet, and there is no membership fee. Reservations a must.
